larazebari posted 4 photos 2 years, 4 months ago
hauturely posted an update 15 hours, 2 minutes ago
Polished but Fun at Intro by Damian Joel Spring Summer 2020
Damian Joel showcased his SS20 in Brooklyn at the Weeksville Heritage Center, a multi-disciplinary museum dedicated to preserving the history of the 19th century local African American community.
Damian Joe’s is a self-taught designer of Jamaican origin. His label, Intro by Damian Joel, voiced his concerns about gender issues and environmental issues through a gender-neutral collection made of deadstock fabrics.
Titled “Songs of the Gullah,” a reference to the African American Gullah/Geechee nation, which stretches in the Lowcountry region of the U.S., the collection made use of airy fabrics in muted colors – light blue, white, sand, pink – inspired by those landscapes. The weaving traditions of such a community were also the impulse behind the beautiful weaved straw hats wore by the models.
The collection featured gender-neutral fringed jeans, jumpsuits, long skirts with a slit, shirt dresses, and shirts. They had clean lines and were enriched by front ruffles and embroidery details. Some of the outfits were made of mixed fabrics for an excellent result. That was the case of a chic blue shirt with the central part in lace and the sleeves in shiny fabric. Striped motifs were also recurrent.
The overall effect was that of a fresh and stylish collection with a non-surprising retro nod given the designer likes the 70s’ “polished but fun” fashion.
written by Sara Gilardi
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hauturely posted 4 photos 15 hours, 54 minutes ago
Wearable Couture at Liu Chao Spring Summer 2020 Ready to Wear
Born in China, Liu Chao has studied and worked for some of the top French haute couture houses, before launching his own label in 2016. This SS20 collection, titled “Son Bonheur” and dedicated to his mother, was presented at the prestigious Palais de Tokyo in Paris during Paris Fashion Week. It was an expansion of the 80’s and 90s inspiration, which was evident even in his FW19 fashion show.
Revisiting the 80s and the 90s, the fashion designer showcased puffy exaggerated sleeves, black lace details, cold shoulders outfits, exaggerated frontal ruches, suit dresses, and above all, plenty of alter-necks and short, pretty tie dresses.
He used an exciting variety of fabrics: flowered jacquard, burn-out velvet, velvet lace, satin, and pleated georgette. The color palette included black, delicate light yellow, intense ochre yellow, and a touch of red.
Putting aside the love for embroidery, which characterized his early production, Liu Chao was trained at the renowned embroidery school Maison Lesage. The fashion designer delivered here in Paris a very wearable but incredibly chic Ready to Wear collection, with clear lines and stylish couture details.
written by Sara Gilardi
Click HERE to view the full Liu Chao Spring Summer 2020 collection.
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hauturely posted 4 photos 17 hours, 5 minutes ago
Ingie Chalhoub’s Spring Summer 2020 Collection “An Ode To Life”
French-Lebanese entrepreneur and fashion designer, Ingie Chalhoub presented her 2020 Summer collection in Paris. She also recently opened a flagship store within a prestigious Dubai Mall.
The collection was titled “An Ode To Life” with reference to “Viva la Vida,” the last artwork of the Mexican artist and feminist icon Frida Kahlo. It was intended as a celebration of the will to struggle as a woman and love life despite difficult circumstances.
A clear homage to Frida Kahlo was made through the use of structured bustier and leather harnesses, remindful of those the Mexican artist had to wear because of her health problems. The combination of male and female elements was also a hint of Frida’s attitude. Thus, the collection featured a bandage dress laid over a male t-shirt and a couple of male suits contrasting with the otherwise very feminine outfits that are typical for the label. The flat flip-flops who made possible particularly fast steps and the models’ styling also added something to the male/female theme.
The collection mixed some Mexican references connected to the choice of Frida Kahlo as an inspiration with the signature combination of European structured lines and more flowy oriental ones, embellishments and embroidery. Ruches, flouncy skirts, cropped top, waist cut-out dresses, and different kinds of embroideries were combined for a refined result, in a profusion of plumetis, macramé, embroidered details, and frills.
The outfits showed great attention to details with unusual and refined necklines. Both the multicolored flared skirts, the fringed mini bags, and the elaborate leather belts were terrific, a real celebration of love for life and beauty.
written by Sara Gilardi
Click HERE to view the full Ingie Paris Spring Summer 2020 collection.
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hauturely posted 4 photos 2 days, 14 hours ago
Notre Dame de Grace de Passy Welcomes The Ottolinger Spring Summer 2020 Show
It’s common to think more about New York, London, Milan, and Paris, but Eastern European countries also have a fashion role in the fashion industry! Christina Bosch and Cosima Gadient are a good example, as a Swiss-German alliance for their brand Ottolinger.
We were transposed in a unique ambiance: the show took place in the underground of a wealthy district church, with strange music. A collection that we appreciate with a fresh vision: the designers are totally in an unconventional aesthetic, from the model casting and the silhouette’s construction. The hair design is composed of solid, wavy, and wet hair that contrasts with the nude makeup design. The Ottolinger woman is fascinating and disturbing. She walks in very edgy silhouettes that give remakes from classic archetypes.
The first look let us know the following elements: the skinny white dress is the new black. We have to appreciate the details on the asymmetric constructions like the non-aligned buttons. We cut, we sculpt and also burn, making other pants and blazers deconstructed. Thread and ropes turn around the body and sculpt a bra and printed pants. The collection masterpiece is the strapless made from a Nike Air sneaker. A Clin d’ œil to Virgil Abloh perhaps.
The models play on abstract, which is the next trend: colorful patchwork prints like à la Sterling Ruby and denim takes a metallic or photocopy effect render. We appreciate the humoristic touch on a classic Vichy print with peppers and tomatoes highlighted with the signature logo. A good idea for an outfit for a trendy picnic for the next years.
written by Youness Boumia
Click HERE to view the full Ottolinger Spring Summer 2020 collection.
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