hauturely posted 4 photos 10 months, 1 week ago
Disruptive Irony at Nina Athanasiou
Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2019
In an intimate venue in Soho, Nina Athanasiou unveiled her new, gender fluid, new-wave collection during New York Fashion Week. The ready-to-wear collection for men and women travelled back in time to the sparkling disco days of the 1970’s, in a very literal sense, with Donna Summers’, “Love to Love You” played on a loop, and, with styling that included afro and Farrah Fawcett inspired hairstyles on women, while men also donned an afro or loose wave that fell passed their shoulders.
Jewel-toned silk dresses and kimonos were strategically weaved throughout the presentation, while head-to-toe animal print also made a strong statement on the runway as a more elevated continuation of the popular trend from last winter. Patent leather and bold metallics were prominent accents throughout the women’s looks: jet black belts, leather shorts and skin-tight metsllic leggings were an unexpected contrast to the light, breezy, silk kimonos and gown, and flowing silk charmeuse skirts. True to the era of inspiration, the feminist, disco vibes were communicated non-verbally through the obvious lack of undergarments.
The men wore cropped, tailored trousers with wide collar, cinematic dress shirts reminiscent of the film Saturday Night Fever. Heavy leather bomber jackets were layered on top of their relatively prosaic looks; in contrast to these looks, a few metallic pieces, like the emerald green kimono paired with metallic leopard print trousers. However, the most interesting aspects of the men’s capsule collection were the garments that mainly served as canvases for the disruptive, thought-provoking works of art that Athanasiou chose to reference throughout her collection. Religious iconography was printed on the backs of overcoats, with cheeky sayings printed on the front t-shirts or sweatshirt: one satirical sweater vest featured the words, “You’re not gonna get in my pants if you don’t love Jesus.”
In a final theatrical gesture, Athanasiou closed the presentation with, Ron Jeremy, legendary pornographic actor from the 1970’s; wearing a purple, velvet, poorly fitted velour suit, his bare chest revealing copious amounts of dark chest hair. Jeremy slowly made his way down the runway, carrying a rose in his mouth between clenched teeth, waving to all the patrons, many of whom were in disbelief by the spectacle of it all.
Nina Athanasiou achieved a bold collection with a large variety of looks that all had very strong stand-alone power, as well as being cohesive as a collection showcasing irony at its most obvious level.
Written by Bianca Rodriguez
Click HERE to view the full Nina Athanasiou Ready-to-Wear Spring/Summer 2019 collection.
hauturely posted 4 photos 2 days, 1 hour ago
New Vision of Streetwear at DAWEI Fall Winter 2019 during Paris Fashion Week
The DAWEI Studio brand was holding a presentation at the Palais de Tokyo venue. We scheduled an appointment so we could preview the collection. This brand, created by the Chinese designer Dawei Sun, who after studying Fine Arts in China, continued his studies in France at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. After graduation, he worked for several big fashion houses like CACHAREL, BALENCIAGA and JOHN GALLIANO. Sun had already created a fashion label called BELLE NINON, in pair with Ling LIU. Although he chose to practice solo for his brand EPONYME, with more freedom, with a more masculine DNA, and strong streetwear. For this season of DAWEI Studio, Sun offers us a collection with a wardrobe based on the winter Womenswear’s archetypes. These have been reworked using a creative process, in a very graphic way, and with particular care in the choice of fabrics.
The first look is a unique trend from DAWEI. The trompe l’oeil coat merges a fitted dress and a tonal coat while they form one. The following looks, found in a more sportswear version were playing on the solid areas of material to highlight the design details such as pockets, or inclined backs. One could camouflage himself in the oversize puffer jackets made with a crossed front closure. This is where we see designer SUN had fun in his creative process by giving not only style but also an attitude for the DAWEI woman this season. She is not afraid to have clothes that are too wide and dares the overlay games by choice of texture and colors. Thus a boyfriend shape striped shirt becomes an oversize dress, and a pleated nude colored skirt harmonizes with the accent of a silver sequined jacket. DAWEI has not neglected the more classic silhouettes. He revisits these in a large flat Prince of Wales pattern or Vichy pattern on trapeze skirts, split to give more amplitude. He contrasts these looks with knit sweaters. On the side of a few of the sweaters are a knitted pattern of a dinosaur head and raptor claw.
written by Youness Boumia
Click HERE to view the full Dawei Fall Winter 2019 collection.
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hauturely posted 4 photos 1 week, 2 days ago
Chocheng Spring Summer 2020 during New York Fashion Week
Showing again at New York Fashion Week was our favorite designer Cho Cho Cheng of Chocheng. Cheng studied fashion and costume design at Parsons School of Design then moving to London, working at Savile Row to learn the art and skills of British tailoring.
The Chocheng brand focuses on using natural and cruelty-free materials while adding luxurious details to the pieces. Fabrics are produced in Europe, while the garments are hand-sewn in London using skills and techniques from Savile Row. Cheng also chooses to have accessories made in Italy. These factors and details that have gone into the Chocheng collections are what makes this brand our favorite.
Like last season, this season used a similar theme of 1960’s movies. Although this season’s focuses were on the films Plein Soleil and Midnight Lace. The collection encompasses the retro aspects you would expect while still having a heavy emphasis on glamor, femininity, and mystery. Colors and patterns used in the collection include candy stripes, coral red, soft shades of pink, and neutral tones. Dresses, skirts, blouses, and jackets where the main types of garments seen throughout the collection. Our favorite look was the strapless bermuda top combined with a matching jacket and mini skirt in a candy stripe pattern, accessorised with large wooden framed sunglasses, a straw woven handbag and a pair of lace-up platform espadrilles made for an ultimate fun, chic, day look that we can look forward to in the next spring season.
written by Style is Viral
Click HERE to view the full Chocheng Spring Summer 2020 collection.
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CHOCHENG NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 09/08/2019CHOCHENG NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 09/08/2019CHOCHENG NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 09/08/2019CHOCHENG NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 09/08/2019
hauturely posted 4 photos 1 month, 2 weeks ago
Designs Influenced by Paul Poiret’s Japanese-Inspired Silhouette at Cushnie Fall Winter 2019 during New York Fashion Week
Carly Cushnie, famed for creating beautifully crafted designs that flatter the curves of a woman’s body. These looks enticed us with her recent collection inspired by French master couturier, Paul Poiret’s 20th-century Japanese-inspired silhouettes. She also took inspiration from the Japanese art of floral arrangements. Forming angular shapes, and geometric folds inspired by artist Nicola Kloosterman’s Shadowplay collage series. She chose to design this elegant Japanese-inspired collection in decadent navy, burgundy, blue, and purple hues.
She kept her signature aesthetic of feminine, clean lines, emphasizing on the shape, and form. Hints of boldness were articulated in forms of Japanese-inspired floral print embroidery, artful draping and folds to create pleated shoulder, asymmetrical neckline, and fringed details. The runway looks consisted of exquisitely constructed tops, jackets, trousers, jumpsuits, and skirts in luxurious satin and velvet fabrics.
This well-tailored collection, with its intricate use of handcrafted techniques, could only be expected of Cushnie.
written by Tiffany Le
Click HERE to view the full Cushine Fall Winter 2019 collection.
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hauturely posted 4 photos 1 month, 3 weeks ago
Afffair Spring Summer 2019 during New York Fashion Week
Showing on the last day of fashion week was one of our favorite brands, Afffair. Quickly rising to the top as a preferred choice for celebrities and on the red carpet, designer Rufat Ismayel, creator of Afffair, brought a glamorous vision for this season and the brand. Born in Baku, Azerbaijan, Ismayel got his start by modeling for fashion houses as a teenager. He modeled for top brands like Paco Rabanne and Valentine Yudashkin. Then he realized he wanted to make a shift and create his own fashion brand and designs. Moving to Istanbul, he launched Afffair. Ismayel manages everything from design to factory garment production.
Jeweled details and elegant evening gowns are some of the features that make this collection so luxurious. Most pieces shown this season were dresses except for the occasional jumper, pants, shorts, skirt, and tops. Colors used in the collection were green, gold, and black. Materials noticed included organza, satin, velvet, and chiffon. The collection used opaque materials, and played with the use of skin which added sexy and mysterious vibes. A few of the looks were styled with a headband that complimented the collection.
written by Style is Viral
Click HERE to view the full Afffair Spring Summer 2019 collection.
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