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Phoebe English Spring Summer 2019
Phoebe English is a luxury women’s and menswear label based in London. Founded in 2011, it is an entirely ‘made in England’ brand from start to finish; from initial sketch to final stitch. And the SS19 collection is no exception.
The BFC Presentation Showspace at London Fashion Week Men became the stage where, for the first time, Phoebe English merged together their menswear and womenswear lines. The geometric space, solid white pillars used for transition purposes, was thematic of the geometry in the collection. A tulle polka dot dress over a white shirt was a shining example of the line’s ever-evolving search for communicative design that explored personal narrative through surface structure and textile engineering. The exploration of construction, or rather deconstruction, was evident in the dust pink, cream and black silk dresses that were a formulation of drapes. With her inspiration board including the bare bones of a dinosaur, this skeletal approach was echoed in the amazing sequin Mohicans and the geometry reimagined with the dewy glistening circle on the faces of the models. Similar to her SS18 fallen cloud design of dresses and skirts tied at the waist, the design could almost be compared to that of a Grecian Goddess, placed in this modern, geometric temple.
In comparison, the menswear collection (originally launched in 2015) has a straightforward, natural and utilitarian nature. With a natural color palette of mustard orange, grey, white, black and navy blue, it is much more structured against the extremes of the womenswear line. Launched in 2015, the Phoebe English MAN aims to reimagine and relax work wear which I think is achieved perfectly through the urban yet straight tailoring in the overcoats, shirts, bombers, shorts and trousers. The convertible canvas sacks in the mustard and navy add statement and practicality to the design.
Sold internationally in high-end concept and department stores, the label offers a range of both accessible, wearable designs whilst still playing close attention to detail, fit and movement and playing with the extremes across both lines.
written by Elena Burton
Click HERE to view the full Phoebe English Spring Summer 2019 collection.
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